DeSano Pizza Opens on Friday

jwalsh

jwalsh

Eager eaters who lined up for copycat cronuts at Kaminsky’s last Friday can put their dough-waiting skills to use again this Friday, when DeSano Pizza Bakery fires up its ovens.

According to a tweet from the pizzeria at 94 Stuart Street, the much-anticipated restaurant will be open “from 11:30 am until ‘out of dough’”

DeSano — operated by Scott DeSano, who in 2011 purchased Atlanta’s famed Antico Pizza and vowed to replicate its artisan approach nationwide – doesn’t deviate from Neapolitan standards: The pies are rapidly baked in 6000-pound ovens which heat up to more than 1000 degrees (think of the pizza as barbecue’s antithesis). The 10 pizzas on DeSano’s menu are topped with a mix of local ingredients and Naples-made products.

Neapolitan pizzas are traditionally thin, floppy affairs which should be eaten as soon as they’re pulled from the hulking brick oven. A publicist didn’t immediately respond to a message inquiring whether DeSano’s pies are VPN-certified, meaning the pizzeria’s methods, ingredients and equipment pass muster with the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, but pizza devotees are split on whether such designation matters.  “It’s essentially a marketing tool,” Slice’s Adam Kuban explained in an overview blog post.

Detractors claim adherence to VPN rules can inhibit creativity, although Kuban concedes most VPN pizzas “range from merely good to really great.” Not a shabby spectrum.

In addition to pizza, DeSano will serve calzones, salads, beer and wine. The restaurant will be open Monday through Saturday on an “11:30 until the dough runs out” schedule. DeSano’s website wasn’t working this morning, but you can reach the restaurant at 637-4225.

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