If you’re tempted to disagree, you may need to pay a visit to pages 46, 106, 111 and 120 of Hank Shaw’s Duck, Duck, Goose: Recipes and Techniques for Cooking Ducks and Geese, Both Wild and Domesticated for visual evidence. There’s plenty of text devoted to the topic, too: The James Beard Award-winning Shaw is a waterfowl partisan — he confidently calls duck “the new pork” – but he’s especially smitten with skin.
“It is the skin that most distinguishes duck in the kitchen,” Shaw writes. “Crispy duck skin is one of the greatest pleasures of the dining table.”
Of course, Shaw probably wouldn’t quarrel with someone who preferred goose giblets or duck tongues: His overriding goal is to eradicate home cooks’ fears of dry and greasy birds. In service of the gospel, his book includes helpful tips for cleaning duck gizzards; storing duck fat and making duck jerky in your car.
Still, it’s the taste of duck which is most persuasive, which is why Cypress next Wednesday is adding duck to its Restaurant Week menu in honor of Shaw’s visit. The downtown restaurant’s also serving charcuterie to accompany Shaw’s book signing, which runs from 6 p.m.-8 p.m.
The event is free.