Nitsuh Woldemariam wasn’t especially fond of plain ayib, the crumbly fresh cheese that’s a staple of Ethiopian cookery, so she started mixing it with threads of spicy collards. It’s an inspired addendum — the bitterness of the greens lashes the sourness of the granular white cheese — and speaks volumes about Woldermariam’s sharp kitchen instincts.
For many Charlestonians, just having an Ethiopian restaurant in town would count as a victory. Yet Woldermariam’s Ethiopian Taste Food & Coffee (which I discovered by eavesdropping on a tweet from @CharlestonFood) isn’t a mere quota-filler: The restaurant, which opened last week, is serving up accomplished dishes likely to please longtime fans of the genre and convert eaters new to the cuisine. Continue reading